Features
All Tied Up, Part II
By James F. Brown
May 18, 2008 - 9:52:20 PM

LOOKING GOOD FOR LOTS LESS
— Dress Like A Fortune 500 CEO On A Mailroom Budget!
 

    In the last column, I discussed the vital importance of wearing appropriate ties in the business, corporate, and professional world. This column will explore the correct way to wear ties.

Use some silk ties to spiff out that wardrobe. Photo courtesy of silksensations.net

    An important consideration when purchasing a tie is length. “Regular” ties are 54 to 58 inches long, and are designed for the average man. This is sufficient to leave the small end of the tie (the tail) long enough to be tucked into the backside loop and remain hidden. That can be a problem for big guys with long torsos; the tail won’t be long enough to reach the loop. The solution for them is to wear “extra long” ties.
    Smaller men have the opposite problem. The tail end of the tie will be longer than the big end of the tie (the apron), and will show. Not good. Two options are available: first tie the tie with a knot that takes up more of the middle part of the tie (the gusset). A Windsor or Half Windsor knot “consumes” more of a tie’s length than a four-in-hand knot. Another knot, the double knot, is a variation on the four-in-hand, where the tie is looped around twice. Other, less common knots can also be used. For more about knotting ties, see How to Tie Ties by Michael Adam (Sterling Publishing Co.) and www.KrawattenKnoten.info (a Ger-man language website, but English pages are available). The second option for smaller men is to have the tail end of the tie shortened — the apron end should never be altered.
    Tie knots need to be matched to the shirt collar. A spread collar really requires a Windsor or Half Windsor knot for the tie to look proportional. These two knots are wide and triangular. Button-down collars need a four-in-hand knot or (for smaller men) a double knot. These are narrow, cylindrical knots that match well with button-downs. Point collar shirts (the most common in North America) work well with both wide and narrow knotted ties.
    Probably the single most important consideration when wearing a tie is proper length. Many men blow this totally. The tip of the apron should end precisely at the middle of the belt buckle. Not up on the shirt somewhere, and not hanging way down below the buckle. I recently saw on TV a well-known Senator who is running for President. His yellow tie hung half way down his fly. He looked like a sloppy, clueless doofus. If your tie doesn’t end at the belt buckle, remove it and retie it until it does! Yes, I have to do this myself — often. Take the time to tie your tie right.
    Strenuously avoid clip-on ties. These are worn by lower class men and have negative connotations. Remember, professional attire is all about making positive impressions.  Clip-on ties send exactly the opposite message. We’ll continue our discussion about ties in my next column.

James F. Brown is a business consultant, writer, and expert on professional attire. His e-mail address is jfbrown@LookingGoodForLotsLess.com. copyright 2008 James F. Brown.