Features
Looking Good For Lots Less: Bespoke
By James F. Brown
Jul 6, 2008 - 12:33:39 PM

LOOKING GOOD FOR LOTS LESS
— Dress Like A Fortune 500 CEO On A Mailroom Budget!

    In my last column, I discussed made to measure (also known as semi-custom tailored) clothing. This column covers bespoke (full custom tailored) attire.
    Bespoke is the highest level of tailored clothing… and the most expensive! It’s named “bespoke” because it’s “spoken for” by one specific individual. Although any item (such as shirts, pants, sport coats) can be bespoke, it’s usually reserved for suits due to cost.
    How does bespoke differ from made to measure? Made to measure, like off the rack, is all cut, assembled, and sewn together at one time. Then a single final fitting is made. Bespoke attire is done one step at a time, with each step in the process perfected and completed before going to the next step. It’s time consuming and very labor intensive, hence its high cost.
    The first step is measurement. More measurements are made for bespoke than made to measure. Every irregularity and asymmetry in the customer’s body is noted. The customer chooses various aspects of the suit such as type (single- or double-breasted), cut (American, English, or Italian), vents (none, center, or side), number of front buttons (6 for double-breasted, 2 or 3 for single-breasted), stance (height of the top button), lapel type (peak or notch), lapel width, shoulder roll and padding, etc. Pants can be flat front or pleated, hemmed plain or cuffed. A pattern is made, and an initial suit is constructed of paper or a felt-like material and temporarily sewn together (basted). The customer dons this paper suit and a fitter examines it carefully. Adjustments are made, the customer again wears it, and more adjustments are made as required. This process is repeated until the paper suit fits perfectly.
    The customer then chooses the fabric that the final suit will be made from. Bespoke tailors — such as the world famous shops on Saville Row in London — keep an enormous variety of colors, weaves, patterns, and weights on hand, far more than available in off the rack attire.
    Next, the final coat body is cut and basted. Collar and sleeves are missing. Multiple fittings are done (just like the paper suit) until it fits perfectly. Only then are sleeves and collar attached. More fittings are done until the entire coat fits perfectly. An obvious hallmark of bespoke suits is that sleeve buttons can be unbuttoned. Pants and vest (if ordered) are done in a similar, one-step-at-a-time process. The entire bespoke process usually takes weeks or even months to finish, and the customer must be available for required fittings throughout the process. This is why bespoke attire isn’t available via mail order, as made to measure clothing is.
    Tailors in Hong Kong, Singapore, and Bangkok — who make a suit in one to three days — are offering made to measure rather than bespoke. Many of them can also make a bespoke suit in a very short time frame, but will charge a hefty premium for this service. And, again, the customer must be available for multiple fittings during the process.
    Although nothing beats a bespoke suit, few men can afford this level of tailoring. Off the rack and made to measure attire works well for most of us.


James F. Brown is a business consultant, writer, and expert on professional attire. Copyright 2008 James F. Brown, all rights reserved.



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