Features
The Italian Suit
By James F. Brown
Jul 27, 2008 - 1:10:16 PM

LOOKING GOOD FOR LOTS LESS

— Dress Like A Fortune 500 CEO On A Mailroom Budget!

THE ITALIAN SUIT

            In the two previous columns, I discussed American and British suits. Now I’ll finish up with the Italian suit.

The Italian suit came into its own after World War II, when Gaetano Savini and Nazareno Fonticoli founded Brioni — still one of the world’s best known and most highly regarded labels. It represented a radical departure from the staid, conservative British suit. First of all, Italian suit fabrics tend to be much lighter in weight than British offerings. This is due, in no small part, to the obvious difference in climate between the British Isles and the Italian Peninsula. Keeping warm in Northern Europe is primary, while staying cool in Southern Europe is paramount. Another factor is the difference in lifestyles. Britons tend to be less physically active than Italianos, who are devoted to the evening passeggiata, or stroll, where seeing and being seen is vitally important.

Italian fabrics also tend to be lighter in color and far more varied in patterns, weaves, and hues. This is an aspect of Italian ideals. Individuality, panache, and a flair for the dramatic are hallmarks of Italian culture, and are highly valued. In the United Kingdom and other Northern European countries, it’s much more of a herd mentality, demonstrating — by actions, accent, and attire — that one is a member of the ruling class.

The silhouette of the Italian suit is unmistakable. Shoulders are wide and well padded, and armholes are cut high. The coat hugs the torso tightly and is ventless. The pants are also sleek, with tapered legs usually hemmed without cuffs. The overall effect is an inverted “V” that is often extreme. This presents a problem for many men. An Italian suit looks great on guys with athletic builds: broad shoulders, flat stomachs, and narrow hips. However, for those whose physiques aren’t “buff”, a classic Italian suit isn’t so flattering. Italian suits have opened up a bit in recent years, with slightly looser fit, to keep up with the global tendency towards obesity. But they are still more form fitting than American and British suits.

The Italian suit is the most “fashion forward” of the three suit styles. It’s often the starting point for the trendy, faddish outfits featured in men’s magazine fashion spreads. That can be fine for after hours attire in places such as singles bars, but it may not be appropriate for business and professional venues. Be cautious about wearing Italian suits in such situations. It pays to take a hard look at what the corporate cultural “norms” are where you work. Take a note of what senior executives and management are wearing, and tailor your own appearance accordingly.

James F. Brown is a business consultant, writer, and expert on professional attire. Copyright 2008 James F. Brown, all rights reserved.